Day 7- Tuesday trail, The Knight's Castle

We started the day being dropped by our driver Kevin in Ansty. As you can see the ivy is starting to turn here but what you can't see are two goofy boxers who came to the gate to say hello before we started the walk. One was a puppy with the wigglies. Adorable!

Then as we made our way down to the maypole we passed two swans and some ducks, which in Dutch are apparently called meerkoet...but I figured out in England they are called Eurasian coots. Gillian was naming a lot of things in Dutch today! We also saw a REAL robin (not those thrushes we Canadians call robins) and a hawk. Witte kwikstaarts were flying around in a field as well. Any ornithologists who can translate Dutch would be helpful to me at this point!

Thanks to our tour organizer Allison Howell from Foot Trails for telling us that a witte kwikstaart is a white wagtail.

After getting lost (that was my fault) and back on track with the help of a local, we found our way to New Wardour Castle which has been now divided up into flats for some of the well off locals. There was a Bentley parked just to the right of this photo.

Back on track, we had to scoot to make it to the Forester Inn in Donhead St Andrew before they stopped serving lunch! But first, we were making our way across an open field when...

this tree dropped a hunk of wood two feet away from Gillian's head! I was calling it The Whomping Willow, but it was actually a gigantic oak tree. I suppose it was The Ornery Oak then?

This lovely willow by the mill was very well behaved thankfully. And we did not get lost again all day.

Our next stop was The Forester Inn, a very swish "pub" with operatic music playing. We felt slightly out of place with our hiking boots and backpacks, especially when Lady T____ arrived (the local Baron's wife) to thank the proprietor for providing the refreshments at her latest gathering. I kid you not, this place was rather high class. We enjoyed our cheddar and fruit chutney sandwiches and had a chat with Bill, a 94 year old local who had to steady himself on our table before he could make his way out to his scooter. He was adorable!

I bought a bag of "Sunset" apples for one pound from this bench. A lovely lady came out to tell us that the coconuts were left over from a village fundraiser for the church, but I just went with the apples!

She pointed us in the direction of Old Wardour Castle, which was left as a picturesque folly for the new castle. We could have stayed here for hours and we both took wayyyyy too many photos. Here is just one more...

Then we had to hustle off again as our driver Andy was waiting for us. Here is one last shot Gillian took as he was pulling up...

Andy dropped us off at our B&B The Compasses Inn in Lower Chicksgrove which is a lovely 14th century thatched building with a pub on the lower level and rooms on the upper level. It was used as a film location for Morris: A Life With Bells On a wonderful tongue in cheek spoof on Morris Dancing. See if you can spot the front of The Compasses Inn in this clip:

I love the post box in the wall on the right. Our room is under the thatched roof on the left. Off on our really huge hike tomorrow. Wish us luck!

23,818 steps today. 

Cheers!

Day 6- Monday Start Foot Trails tour near Tisbury Wiltshire

So this morning we said goodbye to Avebury. We made friends over breakfast at our B&B (two mornings in a row) with David and Jayne, a couple from Pershore, Worcestershire who own a book store called Sedgeberrow Books (Antiquarian, Rare and Secondhand Books). They are also avid photographers who both sell their prints in the store and online-www.jaynewinterphotography.co.uk and www.imagesofworcestershire.co.uk

They gave us a ride back into town to the bus stop thus avoiding another transit issue. Phew! Thanks again Jayne and David. :)

This was the unfortunate view of our beloved Red Lion Pub, the only pub in the world inside a stone circle. It was being rethatched so was not looking it's best. Feel free to zoom in on the thatcher with the plumber butt on the roof!

When we got to Tisbury one bus ride and two trains later, we found the town too small to hail a taxi. So we had to spend about 90 minutes having lunch in this adorable tea shop/book store called Beatons Tearooms. It was recommended to us by a lovely nurse we met at the train station and if you ever find yourself in Tisbury Wiltshire, this is the place to go. It was named after Cecil Beaton the photographer and Academy Award winning stage and costume designer (Gigi and My Fair Lady) who lived in nearby Ashcombe House, now owned by Guy Ritchie, Madonna's ex. Our taxi driver finally arrived after doing his usual run delivering school children home!

We did a small walk after arriving at our inn and this was one of the views from the trail. We got slightly lost (but we think we have the map reading straight now) and met a lovely family walking their very friendly terrier named Jester. They helped us find the church below which was definitely worth a look.

We made it back today before the sun set (moon rise). By the way the lunar eclipse we woke up at 3am for yesterday was lovely and red but the strange animal noises soon drove us back inside. Whatever animal that was, we don't have it in Canada!

This was the end of the day in the 14th century pub where we had dinner tonight and will have breakfast tomorrow. It is conveniently located under the same thatched building we are staying in tonight and tomorrow night. By the way, those are the specials written on the hood over the open fire. Lovely!

I would give you the steps for the day but the keeper of the Fitbit is now asleep in her bed. So I should also wind down for the day.

Cheers!

Day 5- Sunday in Avebury

Our day started today with an early hike to the West Kennet Long Barrow which is a 5000 year old neolithic burial site. There are burial chambers inside the barrow which have been excavated so that we were able to go right in and look inside. We were not the first ones to arrive this morning as the aroma of marijuana hung heavy in the air inside the barrow and someone had left offerings for the gods (pagan?) of a silver ring and £3. We left those alone and only took some flint souvenirs from a nearby farmer's field. Flint is everywhere!

Next was Silbury Hill which is a prehistoric chalk mound. At 30 metres high, it is the tallest prehistoric structure in Europe and quite impressive considering it was dug with antler picks and oxen shoulderblades. This area is kind of a Neolithic wonderland and it is all within walking distance. Stonehenge is nearby, but that is too touristy for us! 

The village of Avebury is actually partially within the stone circle. We started just outside the stone circle with Avebury Manor and garden. The Manor was the subject of a BBC series called The Manor Reborn, where the National Trust allowed a decorator, gardener and all their minions to go wild (within limits) to make the Manor over in an accessible way. You are allowed to touch anything, sit on chairs and even lie on the "Tudor" beds if you take your shoes off. 

After I fell in a rabbit hole in the Manor Orchard (just call me Alice) and stepped in a fresh green bit of sheep poop, we returned to the Red Lion Pub (the only pub in the world in a stone circle) and were each hugged by our friend the owner who was happy to hear that the damsels in distress arrived at their B&B alive. Gillian however now has a cold and was dropping tissues like bread crumbs all over the town, which she dutifully picked up. I wasn't going to touch them! 

We happened to be at Avebury at a special time apparently as not only did we see the Super Moon rise by the stones, but we have been convinced by some of the locals to set our alarm for 3 am to see the lunar eclipse. It's a magical time here right now.

We have just finished our evening cup of tea and shortbread biscuit watching the new episode of Downton Abbey. All I can tell you is that Carson and Mrs. Hughes are having issues planning their wedding. I leave the rest to your imagination.

Number of steps today: 22,223

Cheers!

Day 4- Saturday London to Avebury via Salisbury

Salisbury was gorgeous today as you can tell. The tallest spire in England and England's finest Gothic Cathedral which was built in only 38 years (1220-1258) the exterior, grounds and cloisters are really better than the inside of the Cathedral. Although Gillian was denied the singular pleasure of climbing the five hundred and eleventy twelve steps (OK, 332) to the top of the Cathedral tower as they were booked for the day, we were just able to see the nave as there was a service about to start. We did see the original Magna Carta exhibit before the hordes arrived for the day, and then had our tea and pastry overlooking the cloister seen above. It was a wonderful exhibit marking the 800th anniversary of the Magna Carta.

I did let out a rather unladylike squeal of excitement when I spotted Mompesson House across the green from the Cathedral as this was the location for Mrs. Jennings's London house in the 1995 version of Sense and Sensibility. There was an exhibit of items from the film to mark the 20th anniversary.

The hallway and stairs were gorgeous. The house is not very large but it is elegant. And who is that hiding in the corner from the clock?

"Ah, there you are Pooter! Still alive I see."

Well, actually a hand made Pooter the parrot donated by some of the local ladies of Salisbury to liven up Mompesson House.

Many of the already gorgeous rooms had the added attraction of things like Elinor Dashwood's evening dress for the London party as worn by Emma Thompson. Here is a close up:

I couldn't wait to share these with my sister back in Toronto. Wish you could have been with us!

The photos of the interior of Mompesson House were all taken by Gillian (and aren't they lovely???). She is now my official photographer. :)

This is one of Marianne Dashwood's daytime dresses as worn by Kate Winslet. I believe the hat in behind is the one she struggles to un-knot when she complains "Are we never to have a moment's peace? The rent here may be low but I believe we have it on very hard terms."

Can you see the infamous E.C.F. handkerchief on the bottom right? The one Emma Thompson tries to hand back to Hugh Grant after wiping her nose on it? And you can't miss Mrs. Jennings's crazy pink hat on the left!

And how about that fabulous hat of Lucy Steele's? Wonderful!

We even got to see the breakfast room where the letter from Willoughby is finally delivered to Marianne.

And the suit Alan Rickman wore when relating the tale of the infamous Willoughby's meddling with Beth, Colonel Brandon's ward. OK, I was slightly delirious at this point so it was good that Gillian was taking the photos.

We then toddled off to the centre of Salisbury where they were having a special "French" market day. As well as the olives displayed tantalizingly above, there were pastries (we indulged in an apricot pastry) before setting off to Avebury.

It was a two bus journey which was easy and truly lovely with more thatched roofs than you could shake a stick at. There was a small issue about the bus driver not letting us off near our B&B but the manager of The Red Lion pub VERY KINDLY drove us there after the owner said he would try to rescue the damsels in distress who looked like they were moving into his pub with all their luggage.

So if you ever find yourself in Avebury, the Red Lion pub is a wonderful place for dinner and a pint. Will post photos after we go back to eat there tomorrow!

Step count for the day was 14,682. 

Cheers!

Day 3- Friday in London

Breakfast at Paul (just like in Paris and the croissants smell just as good) in Piccadilly Arcade. Then off to Hatchard's on Piccadilly, booksellers since 1797 and 5 floors of happiness for any book lover. 

Wander inside and see for yourself...

Restraining myself, I only got gifts there including two Paddington books and mini Paddington Bears for two new little girls in our family.  I also asked the very personable clerk for a suggestion of a gift for my 23 year old son who is a P.G.Wodehouse fan. He gave me a "stonking good" book which I will try not to read before I get it home to him! My travel mate is now tucked in her bed with her new book "How to Read Churches", a crash course in Christian architecture! She is studying up feverishly before we set off in the morning for Salisbury Cathedral.

We then wandered down to the Ritz hotel where our jeans and casual shoes almost had us ejected before we could look around. More welcoming was Berkeley Square where the LAPADA art and antique fair was happening on the north end of the park. Invitation only...pity! 

Farther down the park there were benches with inscriptions like this one. Almost as good as the one in the film Notting Hill isn't it? But wait until you see who we stumbled upon next.

This lady was sitting under a tree with her two parrots. On her left shoulder is Girl (20 years old and well behaved) and Boy is ripping apart a water bottle. He is only 4 years old and was much more rambunctious, climbing up and down her jeans. 

We then sauntered down Curzon Street to the little gem of Mayfair called Shepherd Market. Even more wonderful than the last time I saw it, the cafes look very much like they do on the streets of Paris.

Shepherd Market shops, Mayfair London

I wish we could have stayed for another cup of coffee, but we were off to Sir John Soane's Museum. Crammed with antiquities, the former home of Sir John Soane (and his imaginary monk friend Padre Giovanni- I kid you not) this place has to be seen to be believed.

Sarcophagus of Seti I (Soane Museum) Illustrated London News 1864

This sarcophagus was phenomenal and is in the same place in the house as pictured above. What a place! We weren't allowed to take photos but the engraving above gives a good idea of what it still looks like. We also checked out the rather more gruesome Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons. I won't torment you with photos of that! 

We were planning on seeing The Garden Museum in Lambeth and having tea in their pretty outdoor cafe, however circumstances led us to the British Museum for a cream tea and then a peek at the Rosetta Stone. Although we weren't intending to stay after tea, the Battersea Shield (fished out of the Thames and dating  from circa 350-50 BC) sucked us into an exhibit on the Celts. It was an irresistible force and we were happy to give in to it.

Sorry for the terrible photo but now you can see why we had to go in to the exhibit to see the Battersea Shield. We are such geeks that we went back 3 times to peer at the detail on it. The entire exhibit was amazing and we were so exhausted that supper was sandwiches and salad from the Marks and Spencer on the corner.

17,665 steps today. Tomorrow we leave London for Salisbury and Avebury. 

Cheers!

Day 2- Thursday in London

Early start today. Had a good night sleep and off with the commuters to "The City". We got off at the Tube stop for Lincoln Inn Fields and had a peek around (seen below- a bit foggy day to start).

We had breakfast in a pub called The Knights Templar. Housed in a Georgian bank building it was a lovely way to start the day. Eggs Benedict and fresh fruit...yum. Then whizzed past St. Paul's Cathedral seen below as we had each seen that on previous trips. Sun came out at this point!

Then off to The London Museum. No, not the British Museum...this one is located just within the Roman Wall (actually we touched a piece of the Roman Wall on the way out as seen below).

The museum charts the history of London from Neolithic times to modern times. Gillian was gaga over the Neolithic and Roman areas (she was touching all of the flint!) and I had a great time with the Regency and Victorian areas. Actually we both enjoyed the whole museum and I came away with some suffragette swag from the gift shop.

Next we walked to the Spitalfields Market which is an indoor market with various vendors of eclectic vintage goods varying from animal skulls, Victorian taxidermy, brooches galore, old spectacles (I almost bought a Victorian pair of lorgnettes but I restrained myself) and even an old licence plate which Gillian almost bought. 

We did get some gifts for our respective sons however. These are a secret until we get home but are pretty darned cool!

When teatime arrived we decided to take a look at the bit of the old Roman wall near Tower Hill. Tea with lemon tart and walnut coffee cake was consumed looking at the view seen here at the top of the page. 

Below you can see the late 18th century bronze statue of Roman Emperor Trajan in front of the Roman Wall.

We then decided to venture to Oxford Street for some more retail therapy. By the time we each found something we liked in Marks and Spencers (do the Brits call it Marks and Sparks or is that just us Canadians?) we were hungry and exhausted. We wandered into Selfridges and had some lovely Mediterranean food from the food court. We have to look up a recipe for a dish called a shanklish salad which had tomatoes and parsely and onion in a yoghurt dressing spiced to perfection. Must google that later.

A quick tube ride back to our hotel and we are now enjoying herbal tea and Scottish shortbread. Mmmmmmm.

Our step count for today was...drumroll please...23,515 steps. Yesterday was 14,201 steps. We are in training for our days in Wiltshire and Dorset. Feet are up now. :)

Hopefully will be able to post more photos from today later. Technical difficulties today.

Cheers!